Friday, January 27, 2012

Bariloche to El Calafate 27 1 12

Bariloche 

Bariloche was OK but not a town I would go back too , very different from San Martin de los Andes which I liked a lot  . 



Bariloche


After Bariloche we were on way to Esquel 
Top and bottom on our way to Esquel 


Lots of big roads and beautiful weather 


As above 


Esquel was a small farming town with not a lot of charm , but for us the gate way to the Carretrea Austral , which is in Chile  . It's about 1000kms of Ripo or gravel roads as we call them , through some very spectacular country and scenery  


Above just before the border and we are into the Ripo 
below at the border 



Above a Tiger shot 


The Carretera Austral is some of the most beautiful country in the world , with heaps of lakes and spectacular mountains 


And as I say heaps of Gravel roads (lots not more than tracks), some were good some were terrible but mostly we took it easy and on the first day we cover about 260kms . With Bob going down and yes me dropping the Tiger again 


 Lots of dust , look at the great adventurer below 
I think he need a shave more than any thing  


Below 

Arriving in the  small town called Puyuhuapi , Population 300 . We stay here in a cabana , a great town for a stop over 


Sun set in Puyuhuapi


Next day more Gravel , about another 260kms we thought , but to our luck it was only about 100kms, the rest was Tarmac . The 100kms of Ripo was bloody hard going, with a mountain to climb 
and a lot of loose gravel . The roads have a hard base , but with a lot of loose on the top , its not nice (a bit like marbles on glass) .


On the way through 



Next was Coihaique , but before we got there we stop in for something to eat in a little town called Manhuales , which was just before the Ripo stopped . Terry happened to notice that one of his panniers was hanging off , well all three of the guys bikes had  broken Pannier mounts . So it's into a local engineers shop for some work to be done  . This took about 2 hrs as the guys had to strip down the bikes, including taking off the sub frames for wielding , the old BMWs just didnt like the ripo .  The Tiger with its  new suspension just glided over it , but the BM's just don't have the suspension like i do (remembering that they are 20years old )


Below arriving Coihaique , a very nice farming town with lots of great country around it .


Below my gear after 2 full days of Ripo 


The guys decided that the bikes were not up to the Ripo (and I think they made the right decision ) ,so the next day we parted company . They went back over to Argentina and I continued on down the Austral 


I had a 2 day trip around Lago (Lake) Gral Carrera which is the seconds biggest in South America I had approx 300kms on Ripo 
I enjoyed some of the most remarkable scenery ever , I just loved it . I run into a couple of Dutch people that were walking around South America (crazy , they had walked over 4000kms so far )


Around the lake 




Half way round the lake there are the Famous Marble Caves 

By the time I got to the caves I had been adopted by a bus full of Chilean tourists . So when it came time to go see the caves I was ferried on with them (other wise is was a 1.5 hrs wait )
They kept calling me the gringo , with great laughs and a lot of photos of them with me . I had a great time with them 
Below the Marble Caves 



Then it was on to Puerto Guadal another small town on the lake population approx 400 


Thats not me below 


Looking back the next day leaving Puerto Guadal 

The next day it was approx 124kms of Ripo  to get to Chile Chico and back into Argentina . 
I had planned to stay in Pertio Moreno , but I arrived early and thought that I would make the next day a little easier 


Just before arriving Chile Chico 


So the next stop was Bajo Caracoles about 124kms down the Ruta 40 . 


A lot of the Ruta 40 has been sealed now ,so to get to Bajo Caracoles there was only about 30kms of ripo 


Baja Caracoles population 40 
The next day I had to make El Chalten approx 535kms with about 350kms being ripo . 

The temperature here , so the guy tells me that I stayed with said , gets down to 30degs below in winter 


Ruta 40 


After a long day in the saddle I arrived in El Chalten , a very very pretty town with Mount Fitz Roy just looking down on it (picture postcard stuff )


Population summer heaps , winter bugger all 


Lots of Adventure Tourists come to El Chalten for the hiking and climbing and all the other usual Adventure sports 


Before leaving I took a 80kms trip in land to look at the lake above , all on Ripo


Above and below  leaving El Chalten 


Next  El Calafate and the reunion with the guys , which was great .
El Calafate is probably the most touristy town that I have come across so far on this trip . There are just 1000s of them , all come to see huge Glacier Perto Morena . 
Its 30kms long ,5 kms across and stands 75mts above the water . It's  1 of 3 in South America that are still growing , I tell you it is quite a sight 
Pictures below all of the Glacier 



As you can see it was not very warm either 






Terry and I went on a boat ride up to the Glacier as well